Erato Experience

In slapdash last-minute prep fashion, we chose our island of a recommendation from bargirl at Lozanni, Christie. So off we headed to Aegina and the funky Erato backpackers. Erato, run by a Greek-Australian and his gorgeous partner, was lots of fun. At the backpackers itself, they have a pool, free internet, good cookups and a nice bar.

A walk away, we visited the temple of Aphaia in Aegina Marina. We spent ages exploring this wonderful reconstruction. Unlike the writhing waves of tourists keen for a postcard shot at the Acropolis (we did get there eventually) there was no-one at Aphai when we first arrived. After an arduous but fun walk uphill, we spent ages looking at the place, from the freakingly cavernous cistern to composing silly pics. Unfortunate was the unexplored museum - the ticket people didn"t mention it. Two days later we learnt it existed! The church of Agios Nikolaoui (close-ish!) was spectacular. They let us inside - me clad with a makeshift skirt - and Dave was blown away by the detail and imposing design.

Using the fun and lively Erato as our base, we also hired a scooter to hoon around the island on. Scootering in Greece is pretty wild - total disregard of safety and road rules characterises their 'anything goes' road mentality. We felt pretty safe for most of the time, with the exception of a disturbance from an unconventional road user. Banking around a long, flowing bend, we looked up to see the swish of a peacock tail as it hopped out of our way. First time we'd seen the buggers, and it almost caused a road catastrophe!

On Aegina we scootered around, frolicked at the Aegina Marina beach and had coffees galore. Freddocinos - a kind of frappe, coffee and icecream mix - are divine. We were fortunate to catch the islands's Saint Day - Aegina is named after a saint. Big processions began at the church behind our hostel and people spilled out onto the beach as they headed towards another imposing and beautiful church. That evening, we watched the festivities from the Paradise Restaurant. We sampled an average stifado and a delicously (fatty) yet tasty yiouvetsi - lamb with risoni pasta. We then headed out to catch the markets and listen to some interesting live music.

Our last evening was spent in a delightful way. Earlier that day, we scootered out to Sovala and consumed a monstrosity of an omelette - a ham, bacon, cheese fried delight. Totally stuffed, we waited for dinner to eat again. This was fortunate, because we enjoyed live music at a local gyros (kebab shop). We had wine by the barrel - two types of non nosy red and white - deliciously sweet and different. We headed out after for a few more drinks and what Dave deems the most sumptuous chocolate cake ever. It was a wonderful way to end the fun at Erato!

I'm off to the quiescent island of Sikanos today via ferry, so this is a short one to touch base and keep you entertained. Will fill in the Santorini gaps soon!

Oki Doki

So we are in Warsaw, Poland. We've been staying at a wacky hostel called Oki Doki. Listed in the Lonely Planet, this sexy little hostel boasts free internet, colourfully kitsch rooms, a funky bar, cheap washing services and lots more for the weary backpacker. If you want a fun place to stay, it's a great hostel with heaps of perks. Finallly encountered some fellow foreigners too - lots of Americans and Aussies. The first night we shared our room with a lovely Polish lady. We spoke in smiles owing to the language barrier. When she left, she put a chocolate treat on my bed and also kindly returned my journal to the desk. Absent-minded Erin had left it a PC. A wonderful lady indeed.

Warsaw is amazing. Trekking from place to place I'm wonderfully excited but I truly wish I could have innumerable days to explore and absorb these wonderful cities. On our second day we wandered the old town of Warsaw. For a city so ravaged by war, the monuments and stunning facades of buildings which survived show its extensive beauty.

Many have been rebuilt again. Whilst eating our lunch in the old town square, we listened to local music and chuckled with amusement as a lively Polish lady approached all the young men around for a dance and dalliance. Here is her first approach, off to the left side. We plan to head back to the Old Town today to check out a castle.

Cute polish tyke - I have a feeling he was part of an old-style military display that was going on. Every 15 minutes or so, loud gun-shots would go off causing mum and and I to jump on our park benches.

Cute kids abound in Poland. When I was in primary school, year seven, my teacher Mr Martin read Ian Serailler's The Silver Sword to us. I totally adored it and begged him to read it again and again. Indeed, it caused that much consternation I decided I wanted to give my kids the Polish names of the characters - Ruth, Edek and Bronia. Still adore them, but other names are in the mix now. Being in Poland, it's not just Polish names that appeal - the children are deliciously cute. This gorgeous little boy was part of a mock military exhibition. We caught him gallivanting around with his mates and grabbed him for this shot. Reading more of Cloud Atlas I found an awesome quote about the sexualisation of kids - "A trio of teenettes, dressed like Prostitute Barbie approached, draft-netting the width of the pavement." Can I rave any more about Mitchell's wit?

Forgive me as I take a tangent into the world of bookstores. Wandering into the American Bookstore in Warsaw, I came out with Kirino's Out. Published cheaply by Vintage, I'd never purchased it but the quote on the inside has always intrigued me. Flannery O'Connor: 'The way to despair is to refuse to have any kind of experience.' Pardon, I must take a typing break as I contemplate and daydream. Anyway, I figure it shall be a good introduction into the fictional world of mystery.

We got to Warsaw on the Berlin - Warsaw express after making our way from Leipzig to Berlin. Illogical seating arrangements on the train made for constant kafuffle over whose seat was whose. A priest and nun on the train appeared ruffled as people were constantly shifting them. One cumudgeonly old man sat in the wrong seat the whole time. As each person boarded to claim their rightful seat he ignored their wrath with protestations of entitlement.

Onto beer and randomness - had an awesome Polish pint with some pizza - chicken, asparagus etc on Novy Swait/street our first day out on the town. It was our first more decadent meal. Forgot to mention it, but in Frankfurt, Germany, Pizza Hut offers a bier spider - icecream and beer together in a delectable (?) mix. Kebabs are of course everywhere - had an awesome chicken doner in Germany wrapped in flatbread.